The trap under the sink and everything downstream is 1 1/2" PVC sched 40 pipe. The sink drain is 1 1/4" PVC tube, connected to the trap with a slip joint via a pipe to tube adapter. The slip joint uses a flexible plastic, beveled washer to make the seal.
The trap outlet is similar but the “beveled washer” is also PVC and permanently attached (or part of) the pipe. It mates against a corresponding bevel/flare inside the trap.
This connection leaks. Is there a recommended sealant to use between these mating surfaces? I don’t want to use silicone caulk/sealant because I’m afraid I wouldn’t be able to take it apart when the time comes.
Did someone paint that beveled washer on? I have never seen a pvc pipe that had one that did not slide off. Is the beveled washer Plastic or pvc? If it is plastic maybe take a razor and go around the pipe to see if you can break it free and get another to replace it.
Likely it’s dried plumber’s putty, but honestly I’d recommend cutting it out and start fresh. Then you’ll have all new fittings with all new washers.
You can probably buy the sink drain kit (slip adapter and new P trap), plus PVC primer/glue at Home Depot for around $20. Make sure to get one with a 1 1/2 slip adapter. They’ll have a larger washer for doing the 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 transition at the P trap.
Cut behind the downward turned elbow. Leave enough pipe sticking out to glue on a new PVC slip adapter.
Well if it is dried plumbers putty it should come off pretty easy. I wouldn’t go through the trouble of putting on new fittings when a new washer will do the trick.
Thanks all. I’m generally pretty familiar with these things but this is a new one for me. I’m confident that the "washer’ is PVC. I tested with an Exacto knife. It’s pretty hard. This was installed about 40 years ago.
I can’t find washers to fit around sched 40 pipe. Searching for sched 40 p-traps does return a single brand that matched what I have. The original repair had already turned into a cascading series of “oh what now’s”.
I’m trying to avoid replacing the trap with something more modern/common as I don’t have much room for error once I start cutting on the downstream side. I’ll try tapping the underside of the washer using a drift punch to see if it will dislodge.
This looks to be what I have. In the Q&A section, several folks asked about needing a separate seal. The company rep unhelpfully told everyone to “call us”.
It’s not plumber’s putty, it’s too uniform for that. But judging from the crud slightly above it, it maybe stuck in place with plumber’s putty, or more likely caulk.
I’d get a bottle of caulk remover (few bucks) and dribble it around and see if that breaks it up, then slide the washer off.
Clean the pipe well, clean the washer, then reassemble. To answer your question, no, you should use NO sealant. Screw the connection together, tight but not overly so. Test, if it leaks, tighten it another 1/8 turn and test again.
I suspect a little piece of crud has gotten between the washer and the pipe, or the threads and the mating pipe. Clean it out and put it back together. No sealant on those fittings.
Goofy in my opinion you got it right - there really is no pressure on a drain line, so the idea for an effective seal is get smooth matching surface and put them together.
On the off chance that caulk remover doesn’t accomplish anything, I’d get a strap wrench and try to “spin” the washer loose. You could use a traditional pipe wrench except that would leave teeth marks in it which would make it useless. I have read that you can overcome this by putting leather around it then using a pipe wrench; the leather softens and spreads the force so you can apply it equally around the circumference.
I would not discount the possibility of replacing a damaged plastic washer with a fat rubber O-ring, which you can find in those multi-drawer cases in the hardware section of a home store. Couple bucks. Better to have the original that fits, obviously, but there’s always a kludge before you go ripping out pipes.
The beveled portion in the original photo is part of the fitting. When I cleaned both mating surfaces prior to the initial reassembly there did appear to be some sort of material that had to be rubbed off. So I think I’ll try a light schmear of plumber’s putty between the mating surfaces.
I found the current version of this fitting at Home Depot today. It still doesn’t use any type of gasket/washer/o-ring but the mating surfaces have reconfigured from a flare-style fitting to what I would describe as a type of compression fit. The shaped, male end wedges into a groove on the female end (red arrows)
I’ve already reassembled the original parts and starting my 48 hour evaluation period.
However, looking at the most recent photo from the store, it appears that they’ve retained the original bevel at the top of the fitting, although on mine the bevel has been given a smoother finish.
In the good new/bad news department, I still have the other faucet to replace (double vanity) so If i need to disconnect that trap I can post a photo of it.
This started with a dripping faucet which revealed that the seal failed between the sink & drain pipe since it was constantly wet. The drain line interfered with operating the cold water shutoff so I had to disconnect the p-trap to pull the rest of the drain pipe to the side to get enough clearance. I’ve since filed a relief notch in the collar of the elbow fitting.
Then realize that the copper tubing was directly soldered in the old fixture, so back to the store for flexible supply lines.
The metal nut under the sink was corroded/seized to the drain pipe so I had to cut the nut off.
Finally (so far) my learning journey over this new type of PVC joint.
Be careful with the “flexible” supply lines. We recently did a bathroom remodel with two different contractors. The shower and all tile work by one and the vanity and it’s related plumbing by another. The shower portion of the remodel was done by professionals and they filed with the city for an inspection. Everything passed with the exception of the flex line.
After a few re-do’s of kitchen & bathroom sink drains, I gave up on the old chrome/brass piping/traps, and beg replacing them all with black ABS, sturdier, glued, and if needed easy to cut out, replace if access was needed. The last remodel we had done by contractor, his sub-plumber saw the light, also went with ABS… A bit cozy in the wall mounted vanities, but prepped before the top went on, it was pretty easy…
The early brass/chrome p-traps seemed to always either leak or rot out, maybe our water, but the last fix I had to hire a plumber, the cast iron kitchen sink drain had been resting in the adobe clay soil, rotted out, leading to gray water, sink, dishwasher, clothes washer just draining under there… Asbestos furnace ducting had to be abated, then fix the plumbing (ABS), then all new furnaces ducting… Way beyond my abilities… Many $$$'s… But now all is well, felt bad for the guys as they had to deal with the muck under there, money well spent…
