GS’s 6.33% of '23 is NOT a top-tier, AAA-rated bond. It is a mid-tier, BBB+/A2 bond, whose YTW/YTM (look the terms) is a measly 4.86%, or a yield comparable to a 26-week Treasury bill, with this caveat. If you live in a state that imposes income taxes, then the bill will give you a higher net-yield.
You’re willing to learn. You’re anxious to learn. So you need to hit the books rather than hang out in investing forums, hoping to find direction. The very best introductory book on bonds is that by Sharon Saltsgiver Wright. Your local library won’t have a copy. But used copies of the first or second editions (either is fine) can by bought from the usual book sellers. Work your way through the book, pencil in handle and a calculator nearby. Once you understand the lingo and the tiny bit of basic math involved with pricing bonds, then go back to your screener with this thought in mind.
Bond shopping is nothing but comparison shopping, and it involves trying to answer this question: How much reward am I being offered for how much risk? Or, to put it even more simply:
#1 If I lend this issuer my money, is it likely to make interest payments and to return principal?
#2 If/when I do get my money back, by how much will my purchasing-power have declined due to taxes and inflation?"
Yeah, one could get fancy and worry about things like ‘convexity’ and 'duration" (and a dozen other things the bond pros need to track and manage). But at the retail level, there are only two risks that need to be worried about: ‘Default risk’ and ‘inflation risk’, because everything else will sort itself quite nicely once you’re carrying a portfolio of a couple hundred positions, which is really what it takes to obtain that elusive goal of ‘proper diversification’.
That means, if you’re serious about bonds, you’re buying treasuries, agencies, munis, corporates, foreign sovereigns, and you’re buying across the yield-curve and up and down the credit-spectrum. For sure, there are plenty of excellent mutual funds or ETFs that will do that work for you. But all except target-maturity funds come with “market risk” (another term you need to learn), whereas owning the underlying directly allows you to bypass that risk
My suggestion? If it’s ‘income’ you’re looking for, and if you know how to do credit analysis, then look at preferreds or at the ETFs or stocks that pay fat monthly divs. There are better, safer opportunities there than in the current bond market(s). (IMHO, 'natch.)
But also do this. Whether it’s individual bonds that you buy, or bond funds, or pfds or ETFs, buy widely and buy small. We’re in the middle of a very crazy market that is more likely than not to blow up. So what you should be doing at this point is trying to gain experience, instead of putting a lot of money to work. That means carrying a lot of cash (which can be parked in T-bills, though you should avoid CDs which are paying crap these days. )