GE Profile Range Trouble

Yesterday afternoon, we noticed the display screen of out GE Profile Range, a lower electric Convection, regular oven above, gas range up top. Not to panic, the burners lit, and the upper oven seemed to work. Googled the problem, turns out throwing the breaker OFF for a minute, then back on, let it reset the screen/buttons. Success!

But the lower Convection oven still didn’t heat up past 100… Google came to the rescue today… Apparently there is a reset switch within the oven, back, lower left side… As it is way down, deep in there, I’m not sure if I am agile enough to get to it. Do not want to call out a service tech on a weekend, if I don’t get to it, next week will have to do that…

Step 4: Flip the Switch

Depending on the age of your oven, there may or may not be a cover protecting the assembly. Simply unscrew the cover and remove it to access the regulator switch. The switch itself is at the bottom of the assembly and will look like a translucent-colored switch.

Simply flip it on to allow your oven to regulate the power to the heating element . This is not some complicated endeavor. .

All I can think is that we must have taken a power hit in the recent storms, we were away for several days, but it was used earlier in the week, so…

Always something…

https://upgradedhome.com/ge-profile-oven-will-not-heat-up-past-100-degrees/#:~:text=The%20GE%20Profile%20oven%20is%20generally%20reliable%2C%20that,GE%20Profile%20oven%20won’t%20heat%20past%20100%20degrees.

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Please remember that GE appliances are still made at Appliance Park in Louisville, KY, but no longer by GE. They sold the business to a Chinese company a few years ago.

Whirlpool is still red, white and blue.

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The shuffle continues, I guess… This GE Profile Range is from a 2013 upgrade when the previous range died, had to open up the space a bit, cut back the granite top to make it fit…

The over the range micro above it I just replaced was once a Maytag, it failed, and the GE Profile I replaced it with was the ONLY white one I could find in stock anywhere…

Everything else was either stainless or black, not happening here, so far…

Update: Local Appliance repair guys were just here, removed the lowere oven grates, bottom plate, and discovered the cause. The igniter apparently was blown by the cover plate, maybe prior damage, or just shorted out, in any case it burnt a hole in the burner cover plate, as well as toasted the igniter… He said he could bash the hole in the plate, but we opted to just replace it, so an extra few bucks… But then it’s back to new… $466, parts expected in a week or so… Ordered.

Good guys, no hesitation, had the grills, door off in no time, dove right in… Like maybe they’d BTDT before! Keepers I think!

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Fixed today!

Plate, igniter replaced, only a couple glitches, but handled well by the repair guys… The old igniter shorted, led to backplane connection having to be redone, so he did have to get at the back of the range, but that went well. Done!


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