I am not in ELF; but it sounds like ELF and Ulta are two different categories, with Ulta being high-end and ELF being “mass.” If that’s the case; and if Sephora is popping up stores and doesn’t sell ELF products, it’s likely another high-end company eating Ulta’s lunch.
Sephora does carry Il Makiage. Il Makiage is a high-end cosmetics company, and is now one of two (soon to be 3 brands) from Oddity Tech ($ODD), which IPO’d last summer.
With some trepidation, I refer you back to what I posted about Oddity when I took a position in them last month. Il Makiage was their first acquisition.
When I made the other post, I was focused on the strange language of the Oddity CEO in talking about their growth being too high, but in the Q4 call transcript in the CEO’s prepared remarks, he went on to talk about the strength of Il Makiage (Note: Spoiled Child is their second brand):
In my view, there is no good reason to grow 50% at our scale, but due to both SpoiledChild’s ability to blitzscale and IL MAKIAGE’s stronger than expected repeat rate, we landed at a 57% growth rate in 2023 full year. Drilling down to the brands. IL MAKIAGE delivered a very strong year in both color and skin.
Skin grew to around 20% of IL MAKIAGE’s sales in 2023, which is very high rate of category expansion for any beauty brand. It is a testament to our data-driven platform, to the strength of the brand, its enormous potential reach, and the quality of its products. IL MAKIAGE is well on its way to achieving my target of $1 billion of sales within the next five years.
And this:
Both IL MAKIAGE and SpoiledChild are off to a strong start in 2024. Based on our performance in just the first two months of 2024, combined with our outlier repeat rates, we have visibility into delivering our goals for 2024.
This from the CFO:
IL MAKIAGE delivered double-digit profitable growth in 2023 across cosmetics and skin. And as Oran mentioned, IL MAKIAGE Skin is now 20% of the brand sales.
And in the Q&A:
Sure. I will start with international and then, Lindsay, you can refer to the guidance. We see a massive opportunity in international. As I said before, for other competitors, it is two-thirds of their business.
But we have not finished growing in North America yet, either. We are building out very strong localized experience for each market we enter, which gives us strong and profitable performance from day one when we launch new markets.
Oddity began as Il Makiage and first entered the scene by popping up stores across Europe. As they have expanded from one brand to two (Spoiled Child is the second) and have become Oddity Tech, their focus has become D2C and online. But they still do sell Il Makiage in stores. I think they grab people in stores and then try to move them online.
And since they peppered Europe with stores after buying Il Makiage, they may well have a similar strategy in North America, using the Sephora partnership. The Serena Williams launch announcement today no doubt had an impact across the sector, but it wouldn’t have had a chance yet to become the competitor described in the Ulta presentation.
It may be something else entirely, and I still have questions about Oddity, but they’re growing. Fast. And their profitable.
JabbokRiver
Long Oddity Tech ($ODD) 7.35%